BWCAW 2019 - Kids on Kawishiwi

BWCAW 2019 - Kids on Kawishiwi

BWCAW EP 32 - South Kawishiwi River

The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) is a 1.1 million acre wilderness area with over 1,100 lakes in the NE corner of Minnesota.  It contains some of the purest wilderness in the world and the water is so clean many paddlers dip their water bottle in the lake as they paddle across.  You won't find roads, buildings, or cell phone towers, but you will find peace in nature as you immerse yourself in a trip to the BWCAW.

After a successful trip in 2018 for Anne and I with a Stuart River to Moose River loop across Iron Lake, it was time for the kids to experience their first wilderness trip in 2019.  Planning started last Fall with decisions on where to go accounting for the kids not being able to paddle or portage long days.  We decided the South Kawishiwi River area outside of Ely, MN.  It offered easy access, short portages, fishing opportunities, beautiful campsites, and protection from the winds if they were strong during our trip.

We booked our permit into Entry Point (EP) #32 when registration opened in the Spring, only 2 groups are allowed to enter at EP32 each day of the week.  Permitted entry allows the US Forest Service to control the amount of people accessing each area of the BWCAW so campsites don't become overcrowded and everyone can experience a peaceful wilderness trip.

As with all our vacations, we normally have activities lined up from the minute we leave until we get back.  This MN trip was no different as we left South Carolina the afternoon of Wednesday June 20 and headed for MN.  A quick hotel stay in Indiana followed by lunch the next day in Madison, WI with Anne's sister Liz and niece Gabby, we arrived to my parents in Northern MN Thursday evening.  We spent the weekend at Grandma's Marathon in Duluth for all the festivities.  The kids ran with me and my sister Laura in the 5k Friday evening, Anne and I ran the marathon Saturday morning, and Laura ran the 1/2. 

William A. Irvin 5k finishers!

Grandma's Marathon Finishers!

Sunday we went to Ely and picked up our permit from the Kawishiwi Ranger Station, visited Dorothy's Root Beer museum, and headed back to do one final packing.  Dorothy Molter was the last person to live in the BWCAW after the 1964 Wilderness Act.  Dorothy lived on Knife Lake until she passed in 1986 and her cabins were brought to Ely for all to see.  She served over 12,000 bottles of root beer each summer to paddlers!

Dorothy Molter Museum - Ely, MN

Picking up our permit at Kawishiwi Ranger Station
(Hazel was having a tough morning after a busy weekend)

Day 1 - June 24, 2019  EP32 Paddling on South Kawishiwi River

We awoke around 5:00 am at my parent's house to heavy rain.  The forecast called for continuing heavy rains through the lunch hour so we were in no rush to get on the river with a short paddle day planned.  We arrived to Ely around 8:30 am and made a quick right to Britton's Cafe for a huge breakfast.  Cael remarked after receiving his plate, "this is way bigger than I thought."  We did our best to clear our plates but left a little behind then made our way to grab a 1/2 lb of leeches for fishing before leaving town.

Britton's Cafe never disappoints!

EP32 is around 25 minutes drive from Ely down Hwy 1 and then via a forest service road after crossing the river.  We unloaded at the entry point in about 20 minutes and planned to double portage the 123 rods (0.4 miles) to the river.  We all took our packs and loose items on the first trip with the second portage for the canoe, kayak, and oars.  Anne, Hazel, and I would paddle in the canoe while Cael would be in his kayak.  The kids did great on the portage and were ready to enter the BWCAW!  On the first portage Hazel's rubber boot tore and she was wet footing with one foot while dry footing the other for the rest of the trip, she was a trooper about the whole thing.

At the Entry Point with big smiles!

EP32 - Gear ready to portage

The portage into the river is fairly easy and we were only slowed by the mud and large puddles from the previous two days of heavy rain in the area.  It was a great feeling to get on the water and put the paddle into some clean waters.  We met one other family coming off the river as we loaded onto the river.  They had 3 younger kids and had just spent the last few days on the river near Clear Lake.  It is great to see other families out giving their kids this experience.

It was just before Noon as we hit the water and dealt with a strong wind from the NW as a front pushed through.  There was a threat of more storms coming through mid-afternoon so we decided to go for the first set of campsites near Bruin Lake portage and find the best available site.  It was a hard paddle into the wind but we did the 1-1/2 miles in about 45 minutes.  All three sites near the Bruin Lake portage were open although we never did locate the one shown on the map which is on the SE corner of the three (#1697), we also would watch several other groups unsuccessfully try to locate it, it is possibly closed or unseen due to blow downs.  We landed on campsite #1699 and Hazel immediately exclaimed, "I love it, let's stay here!".  It had lots of nice open granite sections with a fire grate and sitting area which overlooked the river.  At this point it had started to get windier and a light mist had rolled in reducing visibility.  We took direction from Hazel and setup the tent and tarp to keep our gear dry if heavier rains rolled in.  It is pretty amazing to think these exposed granite sections are left from when the glaciers rolled through here and scraped them clean!

Camp setup and ready for the evening

Kids staking claim for their fishing locations

Hot chocolate ending day #1

Fire wood cut and stacked for the trip

Nothing beats a hot cup of tea while watching the sun set.

Sun sets on Day #1

Shortly after breaking camp the kids and I headed to get firewood.  We found a nice pine coated in lichen that had toppled and was laying above the ground against a jack pine which had also fallen.  I cut the tree up using my hatchet and Sven saw while the kids cleared it out and brought to the fire grate.  Cael and Hazel both learned the fine art of using the saw and hatchet over the course of the few days there.  Due to their enthusiasm, the firewood gnomes left a nice pile of split fire wood for the next group to occupy the site..

The evening clouds parted and the sun came out drying up the site and providing a nice sunset.  We had a fire with a meal of bratwurst and hot dogs which we hauled in.  A cup of hot chocolate for the kids with smore's and they were ready for bed.  Cael retired before all of us to the tent while we watched the sunset behind the trees.  It was a great first day and the feeling of being in the Boundary Waters set in as we began to relax.

Day 2 - June 25, 2019  South Kawishiwi River w/ trip to Bruin Lake

The sun rose on Day #2 with a continued breeze through the campsite which kept the bugs out and provided a nice cool start.  Scattered rains and heavier winds were predicted for the afternoon so we planned to have a nice breakfast and then paddle to Bruin Lake for a short morning adventure.  Breakfast consisted of eggs with veggies for Mom & Dad, Spam for Dad, and oatmeal and pop-tarts for the kids.  The kids also decided on this trip that they would enjoy having some ramen for breakfast that I brought as a backup meal, guess everything tastes better in the Boundary Waters (or in your late nights of college).

Once the breakfast dishes were cleaned and camp secured, we paddled off for the Bruin Lake Portage which was just around the corner from camp.  Cael went ahead in the kayak and located the portage with no problems.  It is a short 20 rod portage into Bruin Lake with easy landings on both ends.  Bruin Lake is a shallow small lake and fishing surveys report very little for fish life here.  I should have taken that note but we paddled around with the lines in the lake hoping to catch one or two for the kid's excitement.

Drifting on Bruin Lake with the fishing rod

Hazel gave up fishing, she knew no fish were here

After not getting any bites we headed for the shore to have lunch near campsite #1709 which is the only site on this lake.  We landed on the rocks where the GPS said it was but never did find a trail back to the site or locate it from shore.  This side of the shore had heavy blow down and any trail more than 10 feet off the shore looked impassible with the large pines laid down like matchsticks.

I have read that while this area didn't receive the direct hit from the 1999 blow down storm that it still did have quite a few trees down on the eastern shores and portage trails from the front edge of the storm.  One report I read was of a newlywed couple on the South Kawishiwi who had to take shelter under a tarp as they portaged from Little Gabbro Lake.  They did account lots of trees down after the storm and it slowed their progress returning back to Farm Lake later in the trip.

Lunch time parking

Checking out the area

Blow down where campsite is supposed to be

Hazel got a few bites from shore but couldn't reel one in

By 1:00 pm the clouds had rolled back in with a touch of dark gray to them.  We paddled back to South Kawishiwi River and checked out the campsite across from ours (#1698) and agreed we made the best choice.  Shortly after getting back two separate half-hour thunderstorms came our way.  We took cover in the tent for both of them and played a few hands of Uno.  The storms were short but packed some wind so we were glad we had come back to camp.

Evening sunset looking south on Kawishiwi River

Night #2 and another BWCAW sunset to enjoy

The evening consisted of relaxing around camp and enjoying a dinner of stroganoff, chicken & dumplings, and rice & veggies to suit everyone's tastes.  The rains had thoroughly soaked camp and with a large puddle of mud at the fire grate, we bypassed the evening bon-fire for hands of Uno in the tent.

Day 3 - June 26, 2019  South Kawishiwi River paddle

Our first goal for this trip was to make sure the kids had fun and that we didn't do anything to sour the BWCAW experience in their minds.  Hazel had wanted to paddle up and stay on Clear Lake.  Clear Lake is a popular location and the campsites do fill up quick each day.  The winds were heavy again this morning and we didn't want to get into a spot where we packed up camp, got to Clear Lake with no campsites, and had to paddle the winds to find another spot.  It could definitely make a sour day for the kids so we scrapped that plan.  We ate breakfast of Anne's oatmeal and Cache Lake biscuits and gravy, delicious.  The NW winds gave a tough paddle and the kids were already moaning by the time we got up there.  Luckily we were protected from the winds once we got in the narrows and we made circles south of the rapids with our poles in the water.  We had a few bites but nothing landed in the couple hours we fished.

We landed on campsite #1701 south of the rapids for a lunch break and fishing from shore.  I landed a small crappie from shore but everything else was just snags in the rocks.  This is a nice campsite and in hindsight maybe we could have packed up and stayed here, but as always no guarantees it was open.

Heading for the narrows

Lunch at the campsite

Pop-tart kind of lunch

Hazel enjoying the trails around the campsite

Dad lands a mini crappie

The break was nice and Hazel appreciated using the latrine at the campsite.  We shoved off from shore and paddled back to campsite.  In our poor paddling luck the winds had shifted now from the W/SW so we paddled hard into the wind.  Cael was beat when we made it back and the last 1/2 mile we mostly just pulled his kayak by rope behind the canoe.  Once back at camp it was time to relax for the afternoon.  Hazel read a book in her hammock, Anne read on a granite slab in front of camp, and Cael took an almost 2 hour nap in the tent.  While we hadn't paddled much we still stayed busy the first few days and something about relaxing in the afternoon breeze is always welcomed.

Afternoon hammocking

Game of Uno with a beautiful backdrop

I took the kayak out for some fishing in the deeper waters out from camp but still had no luck.  I really was humbled by the fishing on this trip and plan for some adjustments into next year.  I plan to add a fish finder to the arsenal for better depth location, a rock bag to use as anchor which was much needed in all the winds this week, and fishing better times around the solunar calendars even when it involves staying up late or getting up early.  I would also love to fish a trip with some others who experience better luck to learn new tips and techniques, anyone interested?  I mostly shoot from the hip with what I have read online or in books and the last couple years haven't worked for fish in the canoe.

Hazel learned to paddle on her own this trip!

A huge front pushed through around 5 pm with very heavy winds and dark clouds.  We watched it rain to the South and North of us on the river but we never got a drop.  After the front the sun came out and the winds went calm.  The river in front of us went from the choppy waves we had seen all week to smooth glass.  Additionally with no more wind the bugs came hunting for us.  Temps got up to the low 80's that afternoon and we enjoyed the shade.  Dinner was pasta and pizzas on the fire grate.  We all loved the pizzas and will add it for future trips.

Chef Cael prepares dinner for the crew

Our final evening at camp was spent enjoying the campfire, sunset, smores, and more hands of Uno while staying up late.  A small little island off camp we named Hazel Island in our time there gave us a great sunset view.

Hazel Island sunset

Hazel and Hazel Island

Kids reflecting on the trip

Final sunset at camp

Day 4 - June 27, 2019  Leaving the South Kawishiwi River

The winds stayed calm overnight and we awoke to a layer of mosquitoes coating the outside of the tent.  We lounged inside until the sun hit the tent and they scattered away.  Breakfast was a final helping of Anne's oatmeal while the kids ate ramen.  We slowly packed up camp in no rush to head out.  The morning sun helped dry everything out making cleanup back home simple.  It is always nice to put dry gear away at camp.  We packed the canoe and did a final trash/gear check around camp.  At 10:30 am we left and with the smooth river the paddle took us only 25 minutes to get to the portage.  Cael paddled it all on his own and felt proud by the time we hit the portage.  We again double portaged everything to the truck and packed it up.

Saying good bye to Hazel Island

One last camp breakfast of ramen

And we are off....

Cael paddles alongside

The kids were worn out and took naps on the way back to Ely.  In Ely we stopped for a beer and appetizer at The Boathouse before heading to the Ely Steakhouse for burgers and walleye.  It was a great trip and we all felt a certain sadness as we pulled away from Ely.

Hazel enjoys her first taste of ice water

Back to civilization in Ely.

We had originally planned for a 5 day trip but sometimes life gets in the way.  Cael had a flag football tournament back in Charlotte on Sunday so we wanted to get back at a decent hour Saturday.  Our dog Megan who is 14 years old was sick and unsure if she would make it, we wanted to get home to see and help her.  We spent Thursday night at my parents house and left Friday morning making the 21 hour drive straight through getting home Saturday at 6:30 am.  It was a long drive and always with a bit of sadness.  We look forward to next year's trip and the planning we will do over the coming months.  After a couple years on the Ely side we plan to explore from the Gunflint Trail in 2020.

Reflection

Growing up in Northern Minnesota it was just an assumption that great wilderness and recreation locations were out my back door.  Fishing the numerous lakes, spending time at my Grandparent's cabin on Lake Vermillion, snowmobiling hundreds of miles of trails around the Arrowhead of Minnesota, getting on the bike trails, or hiking in the woods were all a few minutes from our house, but that changed when we left Northern Minnesota for South Carolina in 2011.  We moved to the suburban Charlotte region and the hustle and bustle of a city.  The South has great pockets of outdoor spaces and parks including the Great Smoky Mountains, smaller state parks, and mountains yet they are often overcrowded, underfunded, and often with polluted water streams.  I do appreciate all of these places, but it is nothing compared to Minnesota.  We live just a few miles from Lake Wylie and the Catawba river which is the 2nd most endangered waterway in the United States due to pollution and threat of coal ash ponds on its banks.  A storm a few weeks back dumped 100,000 gallons of raw sewage into the waterway while this past week a 4,000 gallon fuel spill happened into the Catawba River.

The Northwoods of Minnesota pull me by a spirit that only gets stronger the longer I am away.  I deeply cherish these few days each year where we are able to experience pure nature as a family.  Cael and Hazel always seem to thrive on any outdoor adventure.  They have moments where things get tough and complaining ensues, but lets face it, we all have these moments, adults tend to use more 4 letter words or keep it under breath.  It is a place I will make every effort to experience each year and take Cael & Hazel to in the hopes that when they grow up they go to the BWCAW with their friends and one day families.  These trips push you outside the comforts of your home and reward you with the surprises and amazement which only pure nature can provide.

Happy Paddling!

What a trip it was!!

Awareness

The Kawishiwi River we paddled is currently at great threat from proposed sulfide-ore copper mining on its Southern edge.  It's hard to imagine what these landscape would look like with the effects of water pollution flowing through it from these mines.  Please take the time to learn the facts and make a donation to the fight.  I want my kids to be able to come back to this place with their kids & grand-kids and have the same experience one day.
  Save the Boundary Waters